Benefits of Attic Insulation

  • Warmer and more comfortable home
  • Save money by reducing your energy bills
  • Improve the BER rating and the value of your home
  • No more danger of burst pipes in your attic as we insulate them as well
  • Contributing to reducing your homes carbon footprint

Total cost starts from

*€499

including all water tanks and pipework.

*price based on 33m2 attic 200mm top-up

There are two options when insulating attics

Option 1

300mm (12") - The ceiling level insulation between and over the joists. This is the required option for both living/non-living area within the attic, this will stop heat escaping through your ceiling and is one of the first things done before installing flooring within your attic.

attic insulation ceiling level between the joists

Option 2

The insulation between the rafters. This would be suitable if you intend to use the attic as a living space which will keep these new living quarters nice and warm.

insulation between the rafters

In addition to topping up fiberglass to 12 inches, we do the following:

  • Insulate your water tanks
  • Insulate all pipes
  • Insulate and draft proof your attic hatches
  • Build an insulated walkway to the water tanks
  • Cover recessed lights using fire rated covers
  • Insulate your hot water cylinder (if required)
  • Install attic vents (if required)

FAQ

Any existing insulation can be left in the attic and an additional layer added to it to bring it up to the required minimum 300mm thickness. It does not matter how long the existing insulation has been in the attic, it still retains its insulation value.

Once the attic has been insulated to a minimum 300mm thickness the ceiling joists will no longer be visible making the roof space hazardous to anyone attempting to enter. However, we can add additional joists and floorboards (raised flooring) to help maintain your storage area. If you already have a floored area we can work around it and leave it uncovered or we can raise it with additional joists.

Apart from any cables feeding a shower unit they will not. A cable, which feeds a shower unit, is usually a 30 amp. We will identify this and make sure this cable is not covered by the insulation by either laying the cable on top if there is enough flex or leaving a gap in the insulation around the cable to ensure it does not overheat.

No, the recessed lights must not be covered directly with insulation. Our attic installation team can install fire rated covers over the lights, which protects them from overheating, stops the heat loss, reduces draughts and risk of condensation, improves air-tightness and insect infiltration.

It is not always possible to do these areas. The reason being is that the timbers within these areas need to breathe and if attic insulation is fitted in these areas it can block the airflow off altogether. Access to these areas is usually minimal if at all existent.

In many cases, it is easier and more cost effective to insulate a flat roof internally using insulated plasterboard. This means lowering the height of the ceiling but may be a better option than insulating externally.

However, every property has to be treated on an individual basis and our surveyor will make an assessment when visiting the property and advise accordingly.

It is very common that roof spaces are not big enough for anyone to stand up in. This is not usually a problem as the installers are usually working in a kneeling position on walkboards.

Condensation is caused when water vapour comes into contact with cold surfaces and condenses to form dampness or water droplets.

Water vapour is invisible in the air and is formed from the simplest of actions such as breathing and carrying out daily activities in the home.
If the warm air can’t escape through an open window or air vent, it moves through the property until it finds a cold surface where it cools and forms condensation.
Controlling condensation in the roof space is imperative and the best preventative measure is ensuring an adequate airflow at all times.
Water vapour can pass through most building materials and will enter the roof space through the plasterboard ceilings.

We will asses your roof ventilation and if necessary we will install new roof tile, slate or soffit vents.

Yes. When an attic is insulated at ceiling level, its temperature is reduced, as most of the heat previously lost from the house through the attic is now being kept within the house. Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the water tank and pipes to ensure that they will not freeze during cold weather. This will also help to minimise heating costs associated with heating water.

Our installers can supply and fit specially designed lagging jackets, fitted around and on top of the water tanks.

 

Yes. Insulating water supply pipes in the attic is a good idea for several reasons. During the cold winter water pipes in unheated spaces may freeze, burst, and flood your home - a situation that can cause many thousands of euros in damage.

Lagging water pipes can also save money on energy costs by preventing hot water pipes from losing their heat to the surrounding air. Insulating the hot water pipes leading out of your water heater, for example, can reduce heat loss and lower the costs of heating the water. Finally, insulating cold water pipes can prevent the pipes from sweating due to moisture condensation, which can reduce humidity levels in the attic.

Our installers can supply and fit a specially designed 19mm flexible foam pipe lagging.